Adelaide Westbrook parked across from the little brick church on Bell Street in June with the letter on the seat beside her, and for a while she did not get out of the car, because she wanted to look at the building first the way a stranger would, now that the country had gone and made it official that the building was worth looking at.

The letter said the church had been entered in the National Register of Historic Places. It said it in the flat careful language of the federal government, which managed to make even a blessing sound like a form, but the fact under the language was plain enough. Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church, 220 Bell Street, Reno, Nevada. Listed. Which meant that somewhere in Washington there was now a line with this building’s name on it, the small clapboard church that a congregation of seven had organized back in 1907 and put up on this lot in 1910, on ground just south of the railroad tracks that no one else had wanted and that her own people had bought and given.

Adelaide was fifty-two. She had spent her working life as a social worker in this town, sitting in kitchens and county offices and cheap motel rooms with people the city had decided not to see, and before that she had been a girl of twenty-two who helped occupy an office up at the university because the campus had space for everything except the students who looked like her, and before that she had been a child in Black Springs on the nights her mother and the neighbors sat up figuring how to get water piped to houses the county would not pipe to. Wanting things for people who had been told plainly not to want them was the family trade. It went back further than she could personally remember and she knew it went back through this church.

She got out of the car.

The building had been bricked over long before she was born, sheathed in 1941 when the congregation could not get permission to move somewhere better and had decided instead to make what they had permanent, wrapping the old wooden church in brick and digging a basement under it so that the thing would stand. Adelaide knew, the way the family knew, that the first church was still in there, the 1910 boards sealed up inside the brick like a letter inside an envelope, and she found she liked that today more than usual, the idea of the older, poorer, braver building held safe inside the one the world could see.

Her grandmother had been married out of this church and had brought her children up in it and had sat in a pew near the front, in a hat, into her old age. Adelaide could still, if she let herself, hear Eliza Coleman singing, a big unhurried voice that did not care who was listening. Her grandmother had picketed a downtown lunch counter in 1960 at seventy years old and come home and made supper. The first meetings of the colored people’s association in this state, the one that took the whole long century to make the town act right and was still at it, had been held in rooms like this one, in this one. It had never only been a church. It had been the place the community kept itself, the address where you could always be found, the one door in a hard town that was reliably yours.

And now the congregation was gone from it. That was the part Adelaide had to hold alongside the letter. They had outgrown the little brick church years back and built themselves a proper large one over in Sparks, and moved, the whole singing body of them, in 1993, and this building on Bell Street had been sold, and Adelaide was not entirely sure anymore what went on inside it, whose hymns, in what language. Eight years empty of her people, or emptied of them, and the federal government had chosen this exact stretch of years to notice it was historic.

She stood on the sidewalk and turned that over and waited to feel bitter about it, because there was a version of this that was bitter, the town and the country learning to treasure Black Reno at the precise moment Black Reno had packed up and gone to Sparks, hanging a plaque on the door the week after the people walked out of it. She had felt that bitterness about other things. She knew its taste.

But it would not come, standing here. What came instead, slowly, was something closer to her grandmother’s flat good sense. The building was still standing. That was not nothing. In a town that had spent Adelaide’s whole life pulling down anything that got in the way of a parking structure, the little bricked-over church where seven people had started something in 1907 was going to go on standing, protected now by that dull federal line, long after everyone who remembered Eliza’s voice was gone. The people had moved. The people were allowed to move; moving up and out was the whole thing her family had bled for. But the ground remained, and the walls her great-grandmother had given the ground for remained, and now there was a record, a national one, that said this happened here, these people were here, they built this with almost nothing and it counted.

Records were the thing, Adelaide thought. She had believed it her entire career without ever putting it so plainly. The county wrote down the people it wanted to write down and forgot the rest, and half of what she had done for thirty years was fight to get somebody entered into a system that had left them out, get the child on the rolls, get the old man his name back on a form. This was the same fight, only for a building, and for once it had been won without her, by other hands, and all she had been sent was a letter telling her it was done.

She would keep the letter. She would make copies, she decided, one for the church in Sparks and one for her own children and one for the box where the family kept the deeds and the photographs and the funeral programs, the family’s own register that no government kept for them. If Washington was going to write her people down, the least she could do was write it down too, on their own side, in their own box, so it would be there when somebody young came looking, some grandchild who wanted to know where they had come from and would need to be able to put a hand on the paper and say, here, this address, these seven people, this ground we gave.

She looked up at the church a last moment. Then she got back in the car, set the letter carefully on the seat where it would not slide, and drove toward Sparks to tell the living congregation that the empty building they had left behind had turned out, after all, to be a landmark.


Bethel AME Church, organized in Reno in 1907 by a small founding congregation and housed from 1910 in a wood-frame building at 220 Bell Street, was long a religious, social, and political center of Black Reno; the original church was encased in brick with a basement added in 1941, and the congregation relocated to Sparks in 1993. The building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on June 12, 2001. The land for the church was donated by Sarah Hamilton, a Reno property owner born into slavery in Louisiana; Reno’s first NAACP chapter grew in part out of the congregation.